Peking duck meat kebab?

Oh, you beautiful German doner!
Kebab in China is regarded as quintessentially German specialty. But it tastes like in Beijing in Kreuzberg?


Doner makes beautiful, but it is not easy to find him. A kebab stand in Beijing
The Peking duck was to blame. With quick strokes dismantled the cook, the dark red skin of the mummified-looking animal with small bricks, which he stacked in front of me on a plate. Then he sat next to the dried bird's head and wished good appetite. My stomach was waved off. My table partner Yinna laughed. "Now you try on the duck. And tomorrow you'll get German food. I will show you the best doner kebab in Beijing. "Is there in Beijing kebab? Yinna should know. The 31 years of her life she spent in the Chinese capital. Her fluent German language comes from two years teaching at the university. In the high season in the fall it takes sometimes Western travelers to the hand and helps them find their way in the Moloch of their hometown.

The doner was introduced in China ten years ago. A Chinese businessman was noticed on a trip through Germany, in that it gives us good running kebab stands on every corner. Imitation in China means "homage in front of a good idea, so the man opened in the fall of 2000 in Beijing with a booth" German doner. The store itself has long since closed. But the idea will survive. There are now many Chinese cities, "Turkish Barbeque." This term for the meat sandwich has prevailed in the country. But where these stalls can be found in Beijing? "With the addresses is the" not so easy for us, says Yinna. Away from the big, always traffic jam clogged the main roads is sometimes only an address from the number one road block, or refers to a sharp point, a shopping center, for example, which already exists but is no longer possible. The city is changing furiously. Even the locals find it difficult to find since. Accordingly, the vague secrets for the kebab stands, which pass homesick German in China on Internet forums are: "Somewhere in the back of the 3.3-mall" or "fifth Yaxiu floor of the market ".

Yinnas favorite doner kebab, there is a side road that branches off from the Wangfujing pedestrian street in downtown. Unfortunately they can not come the next day. Yeh Yeh, her little daughter is ill. So I'm alone on the road with a road map, the Yinna has made for me. Wangfujing is the most popular pedestrian zone of Beijing. It is located just blocks away from Tiananmen Square. Here it looks like any pedestrian zone in the world, only it is wider. About a hundred yards behind the striking Wangfujing Bookstore and the neighboring McDonald's branches left from a lane from the pedestrian zone. It is spanned by a colorful Blumentor. Here every inch of food stalls lined. There are indefinable baked meatballs, noodles and fried scorpions meters long. After a few meters, the street branches off into smaller streets. The power of black-haired man takes munching on me and pushed me deeper and deeper into the market with its sharp smells, and hustle his alluring call. "Where are you from?" Screeches, a skinny young Chinese and waves. "Germany good! Germany eat here! "He enthusiastically shows a layered meatball that turns bulky in the tiny shack. Unmistakably a kebab skewer. He immediately begins to saber. His technique is no different from that of colleagues in Berlin-Kreuzberg. Even his question. "Spicy?" By focusing on? I just want to nod habitually. But what he is doing now with the flesh? The piece can be chopped off plop it into the fat dripped down. Now he throws a spoon geschnipselten salad and begins to mix everything thoroughly. Before I can protest, he draws the now pulpy mixture into a small, pale pita and keeps the whole thing against me proud. »5 yuan" - about 60 cents. The paper bag in which lies the kebab looks original like in Germany and is labeled "Turkey doner kebab." I bite into it. Tastes like well-seasoned, but extremely greasy chicken. It's definitely a doner kebab. But the best of Beijing? At the next level is the delivery of long wooden skewers strung with beetles, their legs still twitching. Germany is located 10,000 kilometers.

I drive a taxi in the Chaoyang district. The Chinese address of Schindler's Food Center Deutsch I've printed out. For security to the question "Where is Turkish barbecue?" In Chinese to the top point. The German supermarket in the mid-nineties by a former colonel in the army from Dresden opened. When his employer was settled, he trained at the butcher, emigrated to China and became rich. The doner kebab, which he began to offer in his supermarket at some point, the Board unanimously praised immigrants as "the best in Beijing."

In large districts controlled by the driver on the address. Now and then he gets out and asks colleagues for advice obviously have no idea, but always resolute nod. On the momentum with which they show in some direction, I try to read, who has at least a glimmer. In a side street, the driver finally stops in front of a nondescript shop. Schindler looks Deutsch's Food Center as a well-stocked convenience store. Packages are available on shelves with Milupa milk and follow-Spreewald gherkins. On the walls there ever a more spreading of meat and cheese counter. Previously, two tables with benches. But where's the kebab? A lonely man sitting there noticed my searching eyes. "The authorities have banned two months ago, unfortunately." He introduces himself as Denis from New Haven. Years ago, he is stuck in the city. "Is there no worse than elsewhere. Only the food is a problem. The Chinese stuff is getting on my stomach. "Almost every week he comes to Schindler's why. "The Chinese have said, this is a supermarket, because you may not sell ready-made food." Full turn pale, he chews on a roll that has occupied him for the sausage seller solace with cold roast.